Removing candle wax from carpet can be tricky, but not impossible. You should only attempt to remove wax from synthetic carpet, never from upholstery or any type of natural fibers such as cotton, wool, or silk (contact a professional carpet and upholstery cleaner for these types of fabric).
You will need water, an iron, and thick white cotton towel.
- Dampen the towel until it is almost soaking wet.
- Place the towel on the wax.
- Plug in the iron and adjust the temperature to the LOWEST setting.
- Place the iron on top of the wet towel on the carpet.
- After 10 seconds remove the towel and iron, and check to see if the wax has melted.
- If the wax has not melted, raise the temperature of the iron a VERY small amount and repeat steps 4. and 5.
- Repeat steps 5. and 6. until the temperature of the iron reaches the melting point of the wax.
- Once the wax melts, it should easily transfer onto the wet towel that has been placed on top of it.
Keep in mind that dye from candle wax may never come out completely, but at least you will have removed the actual wax embedded in the carpet.
First, contain the wet paint and absorb with paper towels or napkin or rags that you don’t mind throwing out. Before you apply any chemicals or solvents, test them in an inconspicuous area of the carpet to make sure it won’t damage the carpet.
For Acrylic Paint
Apply glycerin to the stain and blot it up. Then remove the residue with rubbing alcohol and go over the remaining stain with a mild detergent and water using a sponge or rag.
For Oil Based Paint
Oil based paint will definitely damage the carpet if it sits for too long. Use turpentine or mineral spirits to remove the paint, then blot with rubbing alcohol and finally use a mild detergent and water with a sponge or rag.
For Latex Paint
Blot up as much as possible, then apply a mixture of 1 tablespoon of mild detergent with 1 cup of warm water. Repeat as necessary.
For Water Based Paint
Blot up as much as possible, then continue to blot with vinegar, and finally blot with a mild detergent and water and a sponge.
Scrape away as much paint as you can, then apply WD-40. Let it sit for 20 minutes, then blot the area clean using a mild detergent and water. Repeat as necessary.
• Not taking immediate action
Liquid spills sink into the carpet quickly, so if you don’t act fast, the liquid can seep into the padding and even through to the floor, causing mold and damage. Make sure to act quickly to clean up liquid spills.
• Using the wrong cleaning product
There are many types of cleaning products you can use for carpet cleaning, but you must read the directions thoroughly. Avoid products that have soap, shampoos, and detergents in them, as they may be too harsh and can do more damage than the spot you are trying to remove.
• Not doing a test patch before using harsh products
If you care about your carpet, before cleaning the carpet it’s always advised to pre-test a spot in an inconspicuous location to make sure it won’t damage the carpet.
• Using a deodorizing powder to clean
All powders do not clean; they just help with smells in the carpet. Most vacuum cleaners are not strong enough to vacuum out the powder, so it stays behind and attracts dirt, ultimately making the smell worse.
• You clean you carpet every week
It’s important to keep your carpet looking good, but do not clean your carpet every week. Doing so can damage the yarn in the carpet, and you might be applying chemicals that are too harsh or that work their way into the carpet, attaching themselves and attracting even more dirt than before.
• Never hiring a professional to clean your carpets
A professional carpet cleaning company can do a thorough job of cleaning, sanitizing, and protecting carpets better than you can on your own, and often more safely if the company uses organic products.
The longer you wait, the more the tomato sauce will cling to the carpet fibers. It’s always a good idea to keep some cleaning products on hand so you don’t have to waste a timely trip to the store when you have a spill. You should have: dishwashing detergent, ammonia, hydrogen peroxide, and club soda on hand.
- Remove as much excess sauce as possible, and using a spoon or the blunt side of a knife, scoop or scrape off the tomatoe sauce. Start out from the furthest part of the stain and work inward so as not to spread the stain.
- Apply a little club soda and blot the spot, and use a paper towel to dry the area as much as possible.
- After that, mix a tablespoon of liquid dish detergent with 2 cups of cool water.
- Blot the stain and rinse with cold water, and blot with napkins when done.
If the above instructions do not work, try this:
- Mix 1 tablespoon of ammonia with a 1/2 cup of cool water (Warning! Be careful handling ammonia. Use gloves, and never mix ammonia with bleach!)
- Do a test area spot to ensure it’s safe for the colorfastness of the carpet.
- Apply the ammonia solution and blot the sauce stain, then rinse with cool water and blot dry with paper towels.
If the stain still isn’t gone after using the ammonia solution, try this:
- Create a hydrogen peroxide solution with 1 tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide and 3 tablespoons of cool water.
- Do a test area spot to ensure it’s safe for the colorfastness of the carpet.
- Cover with a towel and keep the sunlight off the spot for 30 minutes. (Warning! Be careful handling hydrogen peroxide, and use gloves!)
- After 30 minutes blot, rinse with water, and blot with paper towels.
When you spill glue you have to act quickly to remove it. Many glues are fast drying so it’s easier to clean up the glue if it’s still wet. Pre-test the carpet to make sure it doesn’t get damaged by trying to remove the glue.
- First start by dabbing the glue with a damp paper towel. You may need to repeat this process with multiple damp paper towels (don’t keep using the same paper towel if it’s covered in glue)
- If the glue is wet and is slow drying, you will probably be able to pick up most of the glue.
- Make sure you get down into the fibers after you have picked up the glue on the surface.
- If this isn’t working with water, dip the paper towel in white vinegar then try blotting.
If the above process doesn’t work, or if the glue has dried:
- Take a brown paper bag (grocery bag) or a thin cloth and put the brown paper or cloth on top of the glue.
- With an iron on a low setting, carefully iron on top of the bag or cloth, checking frequently to see if the glue has melted and transferred onto the cloth or paper.
- Check the spot in 10 seconds. If you need more heat, slowly increase the temperature setting on the iron and try it again.
- Keep checking every 10 seconds or so, and repeat the process until the glue has melted into the cloth or paper.
- Do not spray the glue with water or use steam on the iron.
The easiest way to remove hair from carpet, furniture, drapes, and even clothing, is with a lint roller. Just roll away the hair and dispose of the stickers once they are hairy and ineffective.
You can also use rubber or latex gloves, or a rubber sponge. Wipe over furniture and carpet edges with gloves or sponges and watch how the hair just pulls away. You can also moisten the gloves or the sponge with a little bit of water, which helps in eliminating static electricity and will help it cling better so you can ball it up easier.
If you are in a pinch, you can even rub a blown up balloon on the pet hair! The pet hair will cling to the balloon due to static electricity, and then you can wipe the hair from the balloon into the trash.
After using any of the methods above, vacuum the carpet and upholstery to remove any remaining pet hair. Make sure your vacuum cleaner is at the proper setting for your carpet. When you are vacuuming carpet, make sure to vacuum in different directions (“cross vacuuming”) to ensure you are vacuuming each side of the carpet yarn.
Scotchgarding is a process that is used on fabric, carpets, and upholstered furniture to protect it from staining. It also helps keep grime and dirt from attaching to the fibers by acting like a protective seal, and is often used after furniture or carpet cleaning to prolong the benefits of these services. Fabric has tiny “dye sites” that hold the coloring of the fabric, and the Scotchgard or Teflon protectant fill those open dye sites and put a small microscopic protective seal on the top of fabric.
Scotchgarding is very beneficial for several reasons:
- It protects the carpet and furniture.
- It protects the life of your carpet and furniture.
- It saves you money (you need to have the fabric cleaned less frequency as compared to fabric that is not protected).
- It makes your job easier when you are spot cleaning the fabric.
- It prolongs the “freshly cleaned” look after carpet and upholstery cleaning.
Scotchgard was discovered by accident by a lab technician who was working on a project and spilled a drop of Scotchgard on her tennis sneakers. After some time she noticed a clean spot on her now dirty shoes, thus the invention of Scotchgard.
Although most companies don’t use actual Scotchgard and Teflon protectants, they are considered generic terms like “Kleenex” or “Coke”. Many protectants are safer and greener than the original kind developed in the 1950’s. There are solvent based and water based protectants. The solvent based ones are a type of “fluorochemical polymers” and the water based ones are just water based protectants. There are benefits and drawbacks to both kinds.
Come back next week to read our blog about the History of Scotchgard.
The longer your carpets remain dirty, the sooner they’ll wear out… and the longer you and your family will be breathing in any dirt, dust mites, allergens, mold spores, chemicals, and pet oil and dander hidden in your carpet! What are some steps you can take to make your carpet clean and healthy?
List Your Objectives
If you just want the surface dirt removed, you can rent a cleaner from your local Shop Rite! But if you want all the bacteria, fungus, dust mists, and chemicals removed, you’ll want to hire a professional carpet cleaning company that uses a safe, non-toxic, organic, “green” cleaning system.
You can learn a lot from a carpet cleaning company by asking these questions:
1. What method of cleaning do you use?
2. Are your cleaning solutions pH balanced, green, organic, and biodegradable?
3. Does the owner do the cleaning, or is it the cleaning at least supervised by the owner of the company?
4. What type of equipment do you use to clean the carpet?
5. What type of practical and technical training do you and your cleaning technicians have?
6. How often should I get my carpets cleaned?
7. What will be removed out of the carpet when they are cleaned?
Ask for an Onsite Written Quote
Once you have picked out which company you feel you are comfortable with, have them come out to your home or business to give you a written quote. This will ensure there won’t be any miscommunication with the job scope or the price.
It’s very common for a consumer to be quoted a price on the phone for carpet cleaning, not realizing the company may have a “dual-process” cleaning method. This means they may charge one price for a one-step cleaning process, and a higher price for the better “dual process”. When the cleaning technician comes to the home to start the job, they may try to upsell you on the higher priced cleaning which is often 2 to 3 times more expensive than the one step cleaning process they quoted you on the phone.
Unbelievably Low Price
Many carpet cleaning companies (particularly some of the larger franchises) bait you with an unbelievably low price like 2 rooms for $69, or the whole house cleaning for $149, only to “forget” to mention about all the extra “hidden charges” that may be tacked on, such as “travel fees”, extra charges for dirty carpets, and charges for moving furniture. It’s like buying a home and then finding out that the builder charges extra for windows, walls and a roof!
Many companies claim to be the “best” and have high ratings and reviews. But do your homework and research the carpet cleaning company you’re considering hiring. Don’t just go by reviews on a company website, as they may not always be legitimate. Look at all ratings and reviews on the Better Business Bureau, Angie’s List, and other reputable websites.
Many companies rely on old-fashioned, outdated cleaning methods and products. This is sometimes because the company or franchise they purchased used those methods, and that may be all they know. Other times it’s because the outdated methods are often easier and cheaper, but they are also much less effective.
Many clients have black lines on the carpet around their baseboards, doorways and air vents. These lines are called pollution filtration or air filtration lines. Many professionals believe these lines come from the heater system in your home, but actually they do not. Forced air HVAC systems just blow the pollutants around until they settle on the floor and are filtered out of the air by the carpet.
The reason why this occurs is that there are tiny pollutants from your HVAC system smaller than a micron in size. Because they are that tiny they usually go through any type of filtration system that you may have on your HVAC system.
There is much debate why some parts of the US have this problem worse than other parts. The generally prevailing theory is that these pollutants are usually produced in densely populated areas and in areas of the country where there are older power plants spewing these pollutants into the air. The weather pattern also may have to do with it. Since many power plants are in the Midwest, that weather pattern brings the pollutants west to east to the mid-Atlantic states.
The lines generally can only be seen on lighter carpets, especially white carpets. Many carpet cleaning companies over the years have come up with products that say they can remove these lines, but generally they cannot be 100% successfully removed safely from any carpets
And on a side note, burning candles in your home can also add to these lines.